If you haven’t been to Laos yet, you are missing two important things in your life: an opportunity to explore great nature at a very reasonable price and plenty of chances to brag about one of the least known countries in the world , and the chance to go tubing on the Nam Song river.
Those reasons made me choose three of its major cities — Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng and Vientiane — for my summer holiday. I was able to benefit from all the nature the country has to offer for over nine days for very little money.
But what was more contenting was that I found a great place to find true relaxation and peace, isolation from all the breaking news and complicated matters that tortured me in Seoul.
Luang Prabang: History
The northern city of Luang Prabang is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was the royal capital of the Kingdom of Laos until the communists took over the country in 1975 and relocated the capital to Vientiane.
The old city center has 25 ancient temples with hundreds of monks training themselves and educating local residents with Buddhists’ teachings. The flashy and complicated use of color— mainly gold, green and red— at the famous Wat Xieng Thong (temple of the golden city) and the Haw Kham Royal Museum, formerly used as the royal palace, reflects the one-time glory and prosperity of the ancient kingdom. At the top of the hill, you can see the whole Luang Prabang city at a glance.
Early in the morning, around 5 a.m., monks dressed in bright orange robes stroll down the main streets of the city to collect alms ranging from sticky rice and money to chocolate bars.
You kneel down and pray until the long queue reaches you.
It is serene yet dynamic, real but at the same time surreal. The queue is one of the most photographed moments in the city, but I advise people to just enjoy the time without the flashing camera. Local vendors sell sticky rice at $3 but it is better to buy snacks or prepare food yourself because of food safety issues for the monks.
The night market is full of wonders. Vendors from all over northern Laos gather to sell handcraft items, pictures, clothes and noodle soup among others. Some vendors charge high prices claiming the goods are handmade, but there is always room for bargaining.
There are many guest houses with a southern European atmosphere in the old city center. Unless it is peak season, there are always vacancies for rooms with a view of the river.
The food choices are also good. From simple noodles to ironically pizzas and pastas, there is always great range for those who have hard time adjusting their palette to rather strange Southeast Asian foods.
If you have enough time, visiting nearby Kuang Si waterfall is a great chance to swim in clear, cold water.
Vang Vieng: Nature
Tall mountains surround the village while the Xong River divides the small village into three. The clouds cling to the waist of the mountains creating some of the most mysterious views I have ever seen.
It is hard to believe that this little town had just two guest houses 10 years ago. Now, Vang Vieng is all about tourism.
One house after another is a guesthouse facilitated with 3G or Wi-Fi services while pizzerias and hamburger restaurants play American sitcom “Friends” all day long.
Local residents are more than friendly, eager to get to know you and become your friends. When coming across locals, put your hands together and say, “Sabaidee!” which means hello. They will shout “Sabaidee” back with greater smiles. Many times, they came up and said the words first. Local children also love to talk to you and would follow you to see your smile.
There are various outdoor activities available, from kayaking, tubing and trekking to cycling. There are sports shops lined all along the main road and prices are no more than $10.
With a little map of the town, there are various walking courses taking from half an hour to three at the most.
Each course shows various sides of the mountains and the countryside, where farmers still grow rice in the old style.
Vientiane: Where the future lies
Vientiane, the capital city of Laos, may not come across as attractive to those who seek something exotic or dynamic. It is rapidly becoming a very westernized city with new buildings in construction all over the place and an alarming number of cars on the road.
However, the whole scene is strangely homely — many Koreans find a resemblance of Korea in the 1970s or 1980s.
The famous golden temple Pha That Luang isn’t as large as you had probably expected. But you can see local families performing rituals or making offerings, which helps you understand more about Buddhism as part of Laotians’ lives. There are several temples near Pha That Luang, which are also beautifully decorated to be photogenic.
After a stroll to the temple, relaxing under the sun at cafes near the Mekong riverside is a great way to loosen up a bit. There are many western style cafes selling two-dollar hamburgers or four-dollar pizzas.
I enjoyed a traditional Lao massage very much. I think it is the best in the world, easily beating up some big names such as Thailand, Sweden or China. The herbal treatment with a steamed bag full of herbs was the best I have received by far at decent prices, between $5 to $8.
At night, the city has a few discotheques. They aren’t as flashy or hip as those in larger cosmopolitan cities, but instead you will be able to talk to strangers and hold conversations over Beer Lao, the national beer. You might meet some Thais who cross the border to hang out at more reasonably priced places.
My trip to Laos was more than great because I found ways to communicate with strangers, whether they were locals eager to make eye contact with me or fellow free spirited backpackers who were ready to leave in no time for anywhere, and share laughter with them under the sun.
The vast and sound scenery made me humble and happy for the little things. Above all, the smile on everyone’s faces I passed by made me realize that money, great air conditioning, rich foods, movies or fashionable clothes do not make me happy. It was all about who I am and who we are with.
What you can do
You can make your stay in Laos more fruitful by sharing what you have with local communities.
Le Bel Air Boutique Resort and Villa at Luang Prabang provides trips to nearby orphanage and schools for free. Guests need to buy stationary goods, some snacks and others to share with the children.
Khen Syampore, headmaster of the Luangprabang Orphanage School, said he needs people’s help with primary medication and hygiene facilities. “Children are injured during sports but since we lack medicine, it is hard for them to receive the right treatment in time,” he said.
According to the resort, with $600 one can build a toilet for the school and with $1,500 a building.
At Luang Prabang, the Red Cross provides massages at approximately $4.7. All the profit goes to the Red Cross organizations.
The Elephant Crossing Hotel in Vang Vieng hires local students so that they can finance their studies. Tipping them well will help them greatly. The guesthouse also sells local Lao handmade bathing products.